The Glenlivet

Hello and thank you for joining me in my exploration of putting together two of my main passions - travel and whisky.  I have literally been around the world on cruise ships and during that time I have kept an eye open to see what whisky was available.  In this series I have looked at some iconic blends and a couple of stand out single malts.  Each one has the right to be seen as landmark whiskies in their own right and each have given me much pleasure on many occasions.

This time I am looking at a giant of a whisky, even if a salesperson in the wines and spirits section of an upmarket and famous department store answered my question of “have you got any Glenlivet?’ with ‘I am sure we do… It’s a type of champagne right?’. It is a whisky that has had an important, although some would say questionable, role in how I personally taste whisky.  There are two whiskies that, when I started writing tasting notes, I described as ‘tasting like whisky’.  I went on to describe them further but they both struck me as tasting like whisky in the same way an apple tastes like apple.  Whiskies that I would occasionally use as a re-set for my palette from which to explore others from.  If I wanted to appreciate the fruitiness of a Glenfarclas, or the peatiness of an Ardbeg I wouldn’t start by tasting a Laphroaig or a Nomad. But a good quality, balanced whisky that tastes like how I imagine whisky to be… well that is a good way to wake the tastebuds up or to recalibrate them ready to compare against. 

This is a whisky that saw in the new year with me on the only occasion I was given a free upgrade to 1st class on an overnight flight to New Delhi.  And it is from a distillery that once allowed me to taste the oldest drams I have ever had - courtesy of their international brand ambassador Ian Logan at a London whisky festival.

This whisky is Glenlivet and it is a cornerstone of the whisky world.  There is so much to say and so much to appreciate That I am going to jump right in.

To start one should understand that for a longtime whisky was very different to how we now know it.  Made illegally, hidden in the hills, from crude small stills.  The distillers would learn their skill by being shown and by practice.  The conditions were variable and the outcome was inconsistent.  Often known as peatreek due to the smell and taste it would have been firewater.  On top of that it could be adulterated with all manner of substances including.

There were, however, exceptions.  There were those who managed to make a product that was drinkable - even by the English.  When King George IV visited in 1822, the first British Monarch to do so for over 150 years, Sir Walter Scott made sure he was served a whisky from The river that flows smoothly - the Glenlivet.  It was described as being ‘as smooth as milk  and long in the wood’ and the King wanted more.  Add to this rushed changes in the law and the start of legal distilling began. The 1823 Excise Act reduced duties on whisky and set a fee for obtaining a licence to set up a distillery to just £10.  This, coupled with heavy penalties for illegal distilling and the increased opportunities for exporting legal whisky, was a major blow to the more than 200 hidden distilleries in the area.

George Smith, the son of a tenant farmer obtained the first license in the area and started a distillery in 1824, just one year after the King’s discovery that he wanted more.  In doing so he faced real threat. These were, hard and hostile times.  The weather on the high areas of Glenlivet would have been a life threatening problem for many, with hard and long winters bringing coldness and isolation.  Farming was hard and the land ownership was hierarchical.  Illegal distilling was not only seen as an important source of income but as a cultural right.  Why should they need a license and be taxed on something they drink made from barley they have grown? The response of the illicit distillers to those getting licences could be extreme - it was not unknown for there to be severe acts of violence and buildings burnt to the ground. George had been given a set of pistols to defend himself with But who gave him them?

One might read it was the 4th Duke of Gordon.  In fact my copy of ‘The Scottish Whisky Distilleries by Misaku Udo - seen by many as a main reference on whisky, states that the pistols were a gift from the Duke.The Duke had many reasons to look after the interest of his tenants, including those who distilled, but was also aware of his obligations as well as the possible benefits.  In fact in the early days the 1823 act had some unexpected affects.  The lowering of tax rates did not just apply to whisky but to other spirits as well.  This lowered the cost of imported spirits - namely Rum - which began to become more desirable.  This hit the likes of George Smith hard as profits fell dramatically.  As a result he auctioned off much of his other interests such as his farm equipment and cattle.  The 4th Duke of Gordon was one who, quietly helped George financially and enabled him to carry on during this difficult phase.   However - the Duke can be ruled out because George himself said that it was the Laird of Aberlour who gave him the pistols.  However, it can be confusing as to who that was. There is a suggestion, and one that comes from a knowledgable source, That this it was Charles Grant, who became the Laird of Wester Elchies in Aberlour in 1812 up to his death in 1828. There are many who believe this is the case and it does make sense, Wester Elcies is in Aberlour and the wonders of AI says that the titles Laird of Aberlour and Laird of Wester Elchies are interchangeable.  However, some, such as F. Paul Pacult and the whiskpedia website,  suggest it was James Gordon.  IF this were the case it would support the confusion with the Duke of Gordon. In addition to this we know James had a keen interest in distilling as he was a co-founder of the first Aberlour distillery.  The other compelling information is that there is record of him being referred to as ‘Laird’ and the Gordons occupied Aberlour House with the family being known as Gordon of Aberlour, and, according to the Patrick’s people website, he was the last Gordon Laird of Aberlour. Most convincingly for me is in James Thomson’s book ‘Recollections of a speyside parish’ in which he has written chapter 15 ‘The last of the Gordon Lairds of Aberlour’ in which the last Laird established a distillery close to the mansion house.  I don’t know the answer and whilst looking into it I flipped repeatedly between the two, finally settling on James Gordon but I could easily be wrong, especially as Wester Elchies and Aberlour House would be less  than 3.5 miles apart - and if it isn’t confusing enough just wait until an episode about Macallan and  mention of Easter Elchies House which lies between the two of them. What I do feel sure about are George’s own words -

Parts of the internet claim that George Smith had been given a set of flintlock pistols to defend himself with by Alexander Gordon, the 4th Duke of Gordon. In George's letter to the London Scotsman he makes it clear that the Duke was supportive of legalised distilling on condition that it produced quality whisky and was taxed fairly. The Duke had many reasons to look after the interest of his tenants, including those who distilled, but was also aware of his obligations as well as the possible benefits.  In fact in the early days the 1823 act had some unexpected affects.  The lowering of tax rates did not just apply to whisky but to other spirits as well.  This lowered the cost of imported spirits - namely Rum - which began to become more desirable than the local spirits.  This hit the likes of George Smith hard as profits fell dramatically.  As a result he auctioned off much of his other interests such as his farm equipment and cattle.  The 4th Duke of Gordon was one who, quietly helped George financially and enabled him to carry on during this difficult phase.  However, it was not Alexander Gordon who gifted the pistols but a James Gordon, Laird of Aberlour, and later co-founder of the first Aberlour distillery. To quote George - 

“I was already a tenant of the Duke, and received every encouragement in my undertaking from his Grace himself, and his factor, Mr Skinner. The lookout was an ugly one, though. I was warned before I began by my civil neighbours that they meant to burn the new distillery to the ground, and me in the heart of it. The laird of Aberlour presented me with a pair of hair-trigger pistols, worth ten guineas, and they were never out of my belt for years. I got together two or three stout fellows for servants, armed them with pistols, and let it be known everywhere that I would fight for my place till the last shot. I had a pretty good character as a man of my word, and through watching, by turns, every night for years, we contrived to save the distillery from the fate so freely predicted for it. But I often, both at kirk and market, had rough times of it among the glen people; and if it had not been for the laird of Aberlour's pistols, I don't think I should have been telling you this story now.” 

This does beg an obvious question - did he ever use them? The answer is yes - at least twice.  On one occasion, whilst  travelling to deliver some stock, he was stopped by smugglers on the road between Braemar and Blairgowrie.  He gave them all a dram in hope of pleasing them but they insisted on wanting it all.  George fired one pistol at the first smuggler and aimed the second at the next whilst he shouted his command that they should go.  George was not a man to be messed with and they fled.

The second time was also whilst making a delivery - He was in need of a bed for the night and entered an inn - the Spital of Glenshee.  Inside was a group of illegal distillers who took offence at George.  George ordered 6 bottles of the finest whisky to be shared amongst them and seeing they were calmed by his gesture he went to bed.  However, they did not stay calm for long and, led my a man named Shaw they quietly entered George’s room and surrounded his bed.  Shaw took out a bloodied butchers knife, leant over George and said ‘This gully is for your bowels’.  But George had his pistols ready under the bedsheets.  He flung the sheet back and held one pistol against Shaws forehead as he fired the other into the fireplace.  The sound was explosive and showered the room in cinders from the fire.  George shouted his conviction that if they did not all leave at once he would create a brand new hole between Shaws eyebrows - they all fled.

Today these pistols are displayed in the distillery’s visitor centre and have become a known symbol of the distillery.  When the distillery had a loyalty scheme known as The Guardians (of which I was proud to be one) I received a set of cufflinks in the shape of those pistols - The only firearms I feel the desire to carry.

I also received a key to the distilleries ‘library’, a place I would love to have visited, and a special pin badge that gave special perks to when shown at whisky festivals and events. But returning to our thread -

Despite the initial need for help business began to grow, and as it did George developed the business to include more land, some for distilling but also some for cattle farming.  George passes the distillery side over to his son William.  William had a massive job on his hands and would, it seems, struggle to keep on top of it.  One of his problems was the fact that the whisky was very desirable and under demand.  At the time much of the whisky would be shipped from Aberdeen to Leith in casks.  Then the customers, usually merchants, would sell the whisky on in other containers.  The merchants would be reliant on a steady and reliable supply in accurate measure.  Unfortunately William had difficulty in meeting these demands and could become overwhelmed with his workload.  In addition to this he found that his whisky was being targeted by what he called ‘Gallant Tars’.  These ‘Gallant Tars’ were the sailors who would loosen the casks, drill a small hole into them and help themselves.  Having done so they would fill the hole then re-tighten the cask to conceal their deeds.  William did not know what to do about it, or how to handle the angry merchants whose orders were falling short.  This resulted in William seeking advice from his brother which caused upset within the family.

Despite this the business continued to grow and some of this may be to do with a particular merchant.  Andrew Usher has often been seen as the pioneer of whisky blending.  The truth is that people had been mixing casks for some time - it would have been an inevitable thing to happen.  Usher, however, did it well, with a good whisky, with good marketing and at a time when changes in legislation was to enable a far greater scope in doing so.  Andrew Usher had a deal for 600 gallons of whisky per month on very good terms for Usher.  Usher would then blend these casks and, by doing so, was able to provide a reliable and consistent profile.  What is more he then marketed it as ‘The Real Glenlivat Whisky (spelled wrong)’.  This is seen as a major point in whisky history and, in many ways, the beginnings of the blended whisky industry, even though this would not be considered blended whisky by modern standards as it was only malt whisky from one distillery meaning it would still be considered as being a single malt.  Usher played an important role in promoting the name of Glenlivet at a time when whisky was gaining a larger market and at a time when William was struggling.  The Glenlivet’s reputation continued to rise and demand grow. 1853 was the year of the ‘Act to impose additional duties on spirits in Scotland and Ireland’ which made it possible to mix malt and grain whiskies together  and enabled Usher to release a true blended whisky, mixing in grain whisky as well.  This was launched as Usher’s Old Vatted Glenlivet - spelled correctly.  This was not the easy partnership that whisky romantics might like to think it was.  George Smith had been friends with Andrew Usher for a long time and had made the deal with him without William’s knowledge or agreement.  William was not happy with the terms of the agreement, was struggling to meet demands and had not happy about Usher selling it under a name that wasn’t spelt correctly.  However, despite their many problems they managed to keep working together as Ushers passed on to the following generation.  Glenlivet, however passed the other way. George had, in essence, passed the distillery on to his son William but William was unwell.  William and his brother, John, had had their problems but eventually John had to return home and helped his brother.  William soon passed away due to Tuberculosis.  Devastated by this George had to take over Glenlivet again.

Glenlivet grew, expended and eventually moved to a larger site.  It’s reputation also grew and was even mentioned by Charles Dickens.  George formed it into a new company George and J.G. Smith.

The new site required a new distillery - and this was to be a modern design.  Water came from Josie’s well which served the farm, residences and distillery needs.  The complex was a two floor construction with the grain stored at the top from where it could come down to the malting floor.  This was a purpose built venture and was of a significant size for its time.  In many ways it was leading the way forward and soon had to build even more warehouses.  New railroad connections in 1863 enabled even greater opportunities.

One of the problems with being a leader and forging new ground is that you take on the risks and others may then follow behind.  Glenlivet was leading the way and soon came others with not unfamiliar profiles.  In fact it was so poplar and had so many others following it that it faced another new challenge.  Others would argue that ‘Glenlivet’ was the name of the region and that they could also use the name, as did J A Fleming Jnr in his letter of 1884 in which he outlined that Aberlour and nine other distilleries had been using the term for over 6o years and would continue to do so.  In the famous book by Aeneas MacDonald (not his real name) ‘Whisky” he mentions the Glenlivet district. John Gordon Smith had actually registered Glenlivet as a trademark in 1875 using his solicitor, E. D. Jameson to do so. However, when Jameson made the application he did so using the name Glenlivet on a decorative background and not just the name itself. This established the leeway for others to continue using the name as long as it didn’t have the decorative background. but this didn’t stop him from needing to take further legal actions in the 1880s. He put forward the argument that the trademark should be applied to the name without the graphic and followed on to systematically sue the other distilleries. Many of the other distilleries were not going down without a fight and made counter claims. They would argue that the name glenlivet was a term used to describe whisky of good quality and had been used for decades by illicit distillers. In effect they argued that it was an accepted term in public use. The legal battles were many, big and expensive. John had the support of Ushers who may have helped with the legal costs. In essence John won the battle in 1884 but at a cost. There were 10 distilleries, however, that he allowed to continue to use it taking comfort, maybe, in his being the only one who could be called THE Glenlivet. It didn’t stop though and new ones continued to come up. This became so much of a problem that Cardow distillery was able to boast in 1894 that they were the only distillery in the area that didn’t need to affix the word Glenlivet to its original name. This was not a practice that suddenly stopped but rather faded away with the distilleries moving more to simply using their own name and with ‘Speyside’ being introduced as an alternative name for the area in the 1890s (and being a named protected geographical indicator in the Scotch Whisky Regulations 2009), In fact Tamnavulin, built in 1966 opened as Tamnavulin-Glenlivet and was still licenced as such in 2003. The independent bottler Cadenheads still use the suffix on their own bottlings.

These legal battles did little to damage the growing reputation of The Glenlivet but reputation is only part of the picture and other problems were on the way.  I have often found it interesting that there was a shift in popularity between Brandy and Scotch whisky.  One of the factors was the increase in infrastructure within Scotland, in other words there was a long time when it was easier for goods to be imported from France and Spain than it was from Scotland.  As the shift moved, along with the growth of blending, the whisky industry boomed. As it did so distilleries opened and production increased.  The industry grew and grew until it didn’t and then it slumped.  Overproduction led to a glut and a crash.  Prohibition in the USA, two world wars and even levels of prohibition in parts of Scotland had devastating effects.  Many distilleries closed, and in doing so many areas were hit with unemployment, farmers were unable to sell their harvest, and legal restraints were imposed. This led to The Glenlivet temporarily closing but I am unsure when.  Most of the internet state that this happened during World War II but material I have that is published by Glenlivet itself say it was World War I in 1917  due to grain shortages and government restrictions. By 1933 The Glenlivet and Glen Grant were the only malt distilleries left open in the whole of Scotland and in 1952 they join together as one company. As bad times come so bad times can go and the industry began to recover.  In 1947 Glenlivet was part of another small landmark when the USA Pullman Company re-stocked their trains with Glenlivet miniatures.  The Glenlivet started by having the courage to do something new, it was risky and hard work but it was done with courage and conviction.  In many ways that is the thrust of Glenlivet, it’s not a story of easy won success and effortless triumph.  It is a story of pushing forward, being new, working hard and taking the risk.  It has changed stills, changed location, built and re-built had ups and downs but kept on.  It should be no surprise then that it has been at the forefront of continuous development.  It began with a small still then it grew.  In 1895, 18 years after its first appearance in Scotland, it had a telephone put in and the following year it has electricity installed along with a second pair of stills. In 1920 the stills became coal fired then in 1972 they changed to gas fired.  The following year the number of stills grow from 4 to 6 and then to 8 in 1978.  In 1981 through to 1986 all the stills change again and are converted to steam heating. In 2010 the distillery officially opened the net stage of major developments.  Whilst keeping harmony with its surroundings and traditions it became bigger and incorporated modern technologies. Another 6 stills were added almost doubling its number.   A careful balance was achieved that created a continuation of the historic whilst utilising the new.  Harmonious, open, practical and sensitive it aims to meet needs in a sensitive way into the future.  12 years later and a project began that gave context to the new development - this was a reflection of the length of time that Glenlivet has been with us in the sense that the original distillery site was chosen for a two week long archeological dig. The same year saw the return of some very special barley.  This was Barley that had been sent into space by the University of Guelph Ontario Canada one year earlier.  On its return it has been planted to be harvested and turned into whisky at Glenlivet - and called, of course, Space side. As a further statement to Glenlivet’s longevity whisky specialists Gordon and Mcphail made a very special release. Back in February 1940 John Urquhart and his son George, laid down an American Oak cask, number 336, full of Glenlivet whisky.  In February 2025, 85 years later they released it in 125 numbered decanters designed by American architect Jeanne Gang.  Number one was auctioned for charity by Christies for $200,000 with the remaining decanters going for sale at £125,000. Then later the same year collector Nguyen Dinh Tuan Viet, also known as ‘The King of Spirits’ added the worlds oldest fully intact bottle of whisky to his existing collection that already included a bottle of 1772 rum and 1696 cognac. The whisky was an 1843 old Glenlivet.